KAR.-> Coorg -> Madikeri & Kushalnagar

KODAGU (Karnataka, INDIA) also known as Coorg, is a hilly district nestled between the states of Karnataka and Kerala. It is known for its coffee, spices, mountainous beauty and gallantry. It is also special in that the natives are not belonging to the local stock and have their own customs and heritage. The district HQ (earlier the capital of Bristish estate) is Madikeri.

The picture to the right is of Namdroling Monastry, Kushalnagar, Coorg

MADIKERI: District HQ

Madikeri was earlier known as Mercara. It is 110 kms from Mysore, 140 from Mangalore and 250 from Bangalore. Madikeri commands a towering view of the faraway valleys from its vantage point over a mountain.

Fort is at the heart of the city. This small fort has been entirely converted for administrative purposes. There is only a Church converted into a small museum, inside the fort complex for public viewing. The district jail and a reverred temple is at the base of the fort. A Britishers installed commommeration statue is also at the fort's base in memory of the valour of soldiers during World War II.

Rajah's seat & Park- is half a kilometre further from the Fort. It is a picturesque garden with a small canopy at one end (dimly visible in the picture), from where the Rajah had the panormic view of the valley below. Today, the people throng the beautiful garden in the evening for the sunset.

Gaddige is a kilometre away from the city-centre in another direction. It is the royal burial ground. There are two identical big tombs with staircase up to the top.

Talacauvery (origin of river Cauvery) and Bhagmandala are other must-see points in Coorg district. They are 1 hour journey from Madikeri, part of which is on the route to Mangalore city. Personally I could not visit these.

KUSHALNAGAR: A better night halt than Madikeri

Before we realized, it had grown quite dark in Madikeri. As the plan was to see the herds of elephants early up in the morning in Dubare Elephant Camp, we enquired for a taxi to there, which is some 45 kms far, and also if hotel was available there. At once, the taxi-driver opened the door which was how we became suspicious in the first place. Oh, so he expected us to offer Rs. 600 to him (and without even being at gun-point) as the return journey too has to be paid like it or not, and besides there is no guaratee that rooms will be vacant in the only hotel there is at the camp. We thanked him for the information and cut the chase to nearby govt. Bus Stand and headed for Kushalnagar Around 19:30 pm, the bus arrived and me managed to find space enough to stand. Kushalnagar is another town 35 kms to the north of Madikeri, though smaller in size. It is in the plains and hence travelling is faster and smoother. This town is approached first when one is headed to Madikeri from Bangalore or Mysore and hence is well-connected too.

We reached Kushalnagar and had an excellent dinner and checked in a hotel (Rs 250 for double-bed room). Next morning we began early to take advantage over the tourists which will be swarming in bigger numbers in cars and buses from Madikeri. And here is the advantage of Kushalnagar over Madikeri, as the night halt. It is cheaper, more accessible by road, and nearer to some scenic locales such as the following:

Namdroling Monastry is 3 kms on the other side of Kushalnagar. It is the biggest community of Tibetans in South India. The temples are simply awe-inspiring and the culture is so unique. The main temple has gilded statues of Lord Buddha in the centre (60 ft) with Guru Padmasambhava and Guru Rinpoche (both 58 ft) on left and right of him. Besides, the elaborate paintings of 25 disciplines of Guru Padmasambhava, adorn the walls. Many a tibetan tales are told in the form of paintings. We paid a visit to their library and all books and manuscripts are covered in ochre cloth and bound by strings. The academy has several students coming from their nearby hostels in red dresses , and reciting their morning lessons in the classrooms.

Nisargdham Park is 3 kms way and is on the banks of Cauvery. Covered with Bamboo forests, it offers pedal and row boating, long hanging bridges to cross, wooden platforms and tree-houses to explore, elephant-rides to be enjoyed and herds of deers to feed.

Dubare Elephant Training Camp - is 12 kms further from Nisargdham. Here a herd of 15 elephants come for the bathing by Cauvery between 10 - 12 am and then again turn up between 4 - 5 pm. In other times too, one might be lucky to catch a glimpse of a few elephants coming over for food and bath. The tourists too get to splash around in the shallow-flowing Cauvery river, gently tumbling over the rocks. Elephants can be bathed personally and jumbo-rides are also arranged. One point in mind: the road to the elephant camp is quite broken in certain patches.

Hirangi Dam is some 7 kms from Kushalnagar but I personally did not go there as it was the dry season. The Dam's beauty is in post-Monsoon season in the months of September or October.