KAR.-> Jog Falls, Gokarna & Murudeshwar

The state of Karnataka offers these three delightful places: Jog Falls which are India's highest falls, Murudeshwar a picnic beach spot and Gokarna beaches for treks and baths in the wilderness.

(In the pic from left to right) Satya SM Naidu, myself- Mohit, Hrishikesh, and Ramakrishna are at Om Beach. We left Mangalore by 0730 Mangalore-Madgaon Passenger train and reached Murudehswar at 1130; alternatively sharing the 2 seats in the general compartment. The second pic is at Murudeshwar, doing pranayam aasan. Soon at lunch time, we discovered that none of us had cashed in from the ATM; that finances were low and no ATM was in sight in Murudeshwar…

Murudeshwar Beach Town offers it all:-

• A gentle curving beach graced with the speed-boats.
• A towering temple nearing completion and a beautiful Shiva statue seated atop a nearby hillock amidst the manicured lawns.
• Hotels and restaurants.
• Easy connectivity

Gokarna: Town and Beach
Gokarna is another sea-side town, bigger than Murudeshwar. The town basically appears to be a temple-town with tribal and fishermen communities living together, and has developed rapidly thanks to tourism. Konkani and Marathi influence is perceivable as well. The Gokarna beach is well-frequented and gradual in slope. However, some sand covered rocks can stub you in the feet unexpectedly or can even make you loose your balance.

The town’s claim to fame is not just confined to the Gokarna beach and the Lord Shiva's temple next to it, but the series of mystic beaches nestled amidst the hills yonder there - Kudle Beach, Om Beach, Paradise and Half-Crescent Beach. There are no temples, no markets and only a handful of people out on those beaches. Essentially, there is just the sound of waves crashing on the rocks endlessly. Nirvana...

We reached Gokarna by the most uncomfortable way: four back-to-back back-breaking Great Indian Tempo (mini-bus) journey. From Murudeshwar to Honnavar (25 kms), then to Kumta (25 kms), then to Gokarna Cross Road (25 kms) and then to Gokarna town (10 kms). In between, I had cashed in at the ubiquitous SBI ATM at Honnavar (relief!). We lodged at the Savithri Lodge and after a visit to the Gokarna Beach and Shiva temple, had our thalis (Combo meal) at the Pai Restaurant and slept early. Next morning at 0600, we left Gokarna in the dark (both metaphorically and meteorologically) for the famed beaches of Kudle and Om.

Kudle Beach Route- is 20 mins light climb from Gokarna Beach. We walked along the Gokarna Beach for 5 mins to the south, then another 5 mins on the hill road climbing up till a temple and pond compound came. We climbed up the staircase to the hill-top, and found ourselves in the verdant green plateau where we noticed a large boundary drawn up with stones with a pitch in the middle - Cricket. (We expected the rains at this time of the year and had umbrellas for a brief spell of strong rains that occurred near the Cricket ground. It wasn't a show-stopper. ) We crossed the ground and followed a muddy cart-track going down the hill narrowing all the way unto a make shift restaurant under construction by a group of Nepalese!! This is Kudle beach. A series of huts, inhabited by foreigners out here to soak some sun in seclusion, dot the place.

Om Beach Route- was 30 mins walk from Kudle Beach in the same fashion. We walked across the small Kudle Beach for 3 mins to the south and climb up the hill on the beaten track to the hill-top. We decided not to follow the concrete road there but walked across the plateau. It featured the black igneous rocks and small plants planted by the localites. Then, we explored the small region a little and soon noticed the white paint marks heading down the hill to a distant beach. A road also reaches the beach and there is a village resort being built there as well. This is the Om Beach. A ‘Namaste’ restaurant down by the beach side is definitely to be recommended here - they offer internet, taxi booking, foreign exchange and an excellent bouquet of meals.

Similarly further south after the Om Beach are the Paradise and Half Crescent Beaches..

By 0930 at Om beach, some more autos had arrived with tourists and we took an auto back to Gokarna (Rs. 100). From Gokarna, we checked out and boarded the govt. bus to Kumta at 1100 and from there a Tempo to Honnavar. We lunched at Kamet Hotel –perhaps the best place for dining here. Then a Tempo ride to Gerusuppa(32 kms) was a lifetime experience: like a loving mother to its children, the 16 seater Tempo took into its fold 32 people, all folded up! What’s more? At Geruuppa we stood waiting for another Tempo to take us to Jog Falls, when in came a small van, and the driver agreed to take us to Jog Falls, at a very nominal charge of Rs. 160 with a tire-burst thrown in as well…

Jog Falls:
India’s highest and most spectacular falls, on the Sheravati River. There are four distinct streams: Raja, Rani, Roarer and Rocket (Don’t ask me which is which). Depending upon the gate movements of the nearby dam, the appearance of fall could range from Niagara Falls (during Monsoons) to a mere trickle. A few dare to descend down by stairs for half an hour to cool off under the Falls after which climbing back up all those stairs looks Himalayan. When in full spate, fall’s lower reaches are out of bounds. The place has reasonable facilities of a few lodges, one restaurant, and a small shopping complex.

We arrived in evening at 1730 and just-in-time to catch a few pictures before Jog Falls became the Jog Fogs. A sudden spate of rainfall brought us under a nearby cow-shed. Now, the Indian Cow is curious in her own ways and is naturally to be pardoned for their interest at our rucksack! We boarded the lone private bus to Mangalore at 2030, which thankfully started from Jog Falls only and reached Mangalore at 0400.

How to reach:
Murudeshwar and Gokarna are 160 and 250 kms north of Mangalore respectively on the National Highway to Madgaon (Goa). Few passenger trains stop at the local stations. One is from Mangalore at 0730 and reaches by 1100 at Murudeshwar and 12:30 by Gokarna Station (from where the Gokarna beach town is 10 kms.)

Jog Falls are situated between Honnavar (61 kms) and Sagar towns. No trains reach these hills naturally. But excellent Bus connectivity is there from capital Bangalore and Shimoga town. Infact, all buses plying between Mysore/Bangalore and Goa pass through this National Highway No. 204 on which lies the Jog Falls.